Natural Dye Recipes

We have tested and written recipes for the home-dyer using our high-quality dyes.

For first-time dyers we recommend using one of our pigments and dye assists, which perfectly align with the following tips and tricks.

Dyeing with Myrobalan

 

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

Myrobalan is used as both a dye or a mordant for plant-based fibers, like cotton and linen.

In beginning any new project, the proper amount of Myrobalan Powder needs to be calculated.

Tip: Mordanting

Before dyeing with Myrobalan, we recommend mordanting your fibers with alum for protein-based fibers like wool and silk. For plant-based fabrics, like cotton and linen, you can mordant with myrobalan, then alum.

1. Measure the weight of fabric, WOF. We recommend using 20-30% WOF for buttery yellows. 

For example, if you are dying 500 grams (1 pound) worth of fiber, you would need 100-150 grams of powder.  

If we are calculating 20% of Myrobalan powder this would be our formula: 

Weight of Fiber x 0.2 = Amount of Myrobalan powder needed (by weight)

2. To prepare your dye bath, fill a pot with warm water, enough to allow your fiber to float freely. Add the pre-measured powder and stir well until it's completely liquid.  

3. You are now ready to begin dyeing! We recommend getting your mordanted fabrics wet and ringing them out until they are damp, this helps evenly distribute the dye.

Tip: Modifiers

This is where you can add modifiers, or dye assists, to manipulate color. Remember, modifiers cannot be removed from the dye bath, if you want to experiment with swatches or dye different pieces of fabric, separate your dye bath and add modifiers accordingly. Adding 2-4% WOF iron to the dye bath to produce grey and earthy greens. Pairing both myrobalan and osage orange creates a brighter but less colorfast yellow than just using myrobalan alone.

4. Once the fabric is in, slowly begin heating your water to about 180 degrees F, above a simmer but below a boil with slight steam, for about an hour.

5. The final step is to rinse the dyed fabrics and let them dry overnight. Wash using a pH-neutral liquid detergent, like Dr. Bronner’s.

Tip: Modifiers

Myrobalan is a good foundation for over-dyeing with Indigo, producing a tinted teal.

Dyeing with Osage Orange

 

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

Extract Osage Orange Chips into a dye bath:

Before dyeing with osage, we recommend mordanting your plant-based fibers (cotton or linen), with a mordant and tannin, like myrobalan and alum.

All dyestuff must first be processed to extract pigment. In beginning any new project, the proper amount of Osage Orange Chips needs to be calculated.

  1. Measure the weight of fabric, WOF. We recommend using 40% WOF, weight of dry materials.

For example, if you are dying 500 grams (1 pound) worth of fiber, you would need 200 grams of osage.

Weight of Fiber x 0.4 = weight of dry materials

2. Add about 1 quart of water into a pot and add the pre-measured amount of osage orange chips for your specific project.

3. Bring the water to about 175 degrees F, above a simmer but below a boil with slight steam, for about 30 minutes to an hour.  

4. Strain the osage from the liquid, saving the liquid. This liquid is your extract. You are now ready to begin dyeing and prepping your dye bath!

Dyeing with Osage Orange:

5. To prep your dye bath, fill a pot with enough water to fit your fiber.

6. Add the correct amount of dye, extracted liquid, and stir it well.

7. You are now ready to begin dyeing! Get your mordanted fabrics wet and ring them out until they are damp, this helps evenly distribute the dye.  

Tip: Modifiers

Add 1-5% WOF of alum to the dye bath for brightened canary yellows or myrobalan for lightfast yellows. 1-3% WOF of iron added to the dye bath will produce earthy olive green. Remember, you can’t go back. If you are dyeing several items in one dye bath, you can separate the liquid into different pots, and add modifiers where needed.

8. Place your fabric into the dye pot. Once the fabric is in, slowly begin heating your water to a simmer, about 90 degrees F. Ensure the dye is able to reach every crease or wrinkle within the fabric by gently moving it around. Leave the project in the dye bath for about 45 minute to an hour.  

9. Rinse the dyed fabrics a few times and wash using a pH-neutral liquid detergent, like Dr. Bronner’s.

10. Dry your textile away from direct sunlight to avoid the dye fading unevenly.

Tip: Modifiers

Pair with our natural indigo, by over or under-dying. Over-dyeing means dipping your dyed fabric into an indigo vat, and under-dyeing refers to dyeing your fabric with indigo before dyeing it with osage orange. Experiment to produce an array of bright leafy and emerald greens.

Dyeing with Madder Root Paste

 

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

Before dyeing with madder, be sure to mordant your fibers accordingly.

Tip: Mordanting

Our favorite madder pre-mordants are alum or tannins, like myrobalan. For deeper reds, use alum mordant and chalk (calcium carbonate).

In beginning any new project, the proper amount of Madder Paste Extract needs to be calculated.  

  1. Measure the weight of fabric, WOF. We recommend using 100% WOF to achieve the deepest red shades possible. If you are trying to achieve Madder orange, only 50% WOF is needed. 

For example, if you are dying 500 grams (1 pound) worth of fiber, you would need grams of paste for red, and 250 grams for orange.

If we are calculating 50% of paste this would be our formula:

Weight of Fiber x 0.5 = Amount of Madder Root paste needed (by weight)

2. To prepare your dye bath, fill a pot with hot water, enough to allow your fiber to float freely. Mix the pre-measured paste with hot water for several minutes or until it's completely dissolved.

3. You are now ready to begin dyeing! We recommend getting your mordanted fabrics wet and ringing them out until they are damp, this helps evenly distribute the dye.

4. Once the fabric is in, slowly begin heating your water to a light simmer, about 90 degrees F for about 30 min to an hour (the longer the better!).

Tip: Modifiers

This is where you can add modifiers, or dye assists, to further manipulate color. Remember, modifiers cannot be removed from the dye bath, if you want to experiment with swatches or dye different pieces of fabric, separate your dye bath and add modifiers accordingly. To create an orange terracotta hue, we need to increase the acidity of the bath. Don't heat the dye bath as high, leaving it at about 90 degrees F, and add 5-8% WOF cream of tartar. If colors are too orange, adjust the pH with a small amount of chalk (calcium carbonate) or a very tiny addition of soda ash (sodium carbonate) to shift the hue to red. For deepened burgundy shades, add chalk and leave the fabrics in the dye pot for an additional 30 minutes to an hour.

5. Increase the temperature to 180 degrees F, above a simmer but below a boil with slight steam, for another 30 min to an hour. Agitate the dye bath frequently.

6. The final step is to rinse the dyed fabrics and let them dry overnight. Wash using a pH-neutral liquid detergent, like Dr. Bronner’s.

Tip: Modifiers

After dyeing, you can use iron as a post-mordant for "saddening" the color to a muted burgundy purplish-red.

Madder dye baths may be reused to get paler pinks, oranges, and corals. Feel free to reuse it several times!

Dyeing with Black Walnut Paste

 

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

Before dyeing with madder, be sure to mordant your fibers accordingly.

Tip: Mordanting

Before dyeing with black walnut, mordant your fibers and alum for lighter colors or iron for deep, dark browns.

In beginning any new project, the proper amount of Black Walnut Paste needs to be calculated.

  1. Measure the weight of fabric, WOF.  We recommend using 50-100% WOF dye paste for dark browns and 5-20% WOF for tans and khakis. 

For example, if you are dying 500 grams (1 pound) worth of fiber, you would need 250-500 grams of paste for dark browns and 25 - 100 grams for tans.

If we are calculating 50% WOF black walnut paste this would be our formula:

Weight of Fiber x 0.5 = Amount of Black Walnut Paste needed (by weight)

2. To prepare your dye bath, fill a pot with warm water, enough to allow your fiber to float freely. Mix the pre-measured paste with hot water for several minutes or until it's completely dissolved.

3. You are now ready to begin dyeing! We recommend getting your mordanted fabrics wet and ringing them out until they are damp, this helps evenly distribute the dye.

4. Once the fabric is in, slowly begin heating your water to a simmer, about 90 degrees F, to dye cotton. For wool or silk, increase the temperature to just below a boil, at 180 degrees F. 

Tip: Modifier

Pair the dye bath or over-dye with madder root to produce purple mahoganies.  

5. Long dye times are recommended to maximize color uptake. Simmer for 1-2 hours. Ensure the dye is able to penetrate every bit of fabric by gently stirring throughout.

6. The final step is to rinse the dyed fabrics a few times and wash using a pH-neutral liquid detergent, like Dr. Bronner’s.

Indigo Vat Recipes

We have tested and written 3 types of easy indigo vat recipes for the home-dyer.

For first-time dyers we recommend using one of our Iron, Fructose, and Hydro Natural Indigo Kits, which align perfectly with our recipes.

All dyers may follow along with our Natural Dye Tutorials on Youtube. Videos are linked below.

Fructose Vat

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

This 1-2-3 vat recipe is courtesy of Liz Spencer aka @thedogwooddyer, enjoy!

Ingredients: We offer Natural Indigo Fructose Vat Kits with all necessary ingredients included.

Included with our Kit:

  • 100g powdered Stony Creek Colors 25% natural indigo 1 part
  • 200g calcium hydroxide 2 parts which is an Alkaline/Base
  • 300g fructose crystals 3 parts which is a Reducing Agent

Not Included:

  • For plant-based fibers, like cotton, use 2 tsp synthrapol or detergent (neutral soap) and 8 tsp soda ash (alkaline surfactant) per pound of fiber
  • 5-gallon stainless steel pot which can be found online or most big box stores
  • 1 tsp of Orvus Paste per 1 lb wool or silk fiber being dyed

Tip: If you use paste instead of powder with the 1-2-3 method, use 200g of paste.

“This recipe will dye up to 2.2lbs of fiber a dark blue. There will also be enough indigo left to dye other items a slightly lighter shade. This vat recipe is based on the traditional indigo vats of Morocco, India, and Provence and was developed and revived by Michel Garcia. It relies on the chemical reactions between a mineral alkali and a natural reducing agent to remove excess oxygen (a chemical process called reduction). Reduction takes the oxygen from the indigo dye molecule liberating and allowing it to be soluble in water and to attach and bond to fibers. Natural reducing agents absorb oxygen and are known as antioxidants. They include dried and fresh sugar-rich fruits, minerals, flavonoids, medicinal plants, and even other dye-plants and substances (henna, dates, iron/ferrous sulfate/copperas, yeast). Without a reducing agent and alkaline substance, the indigo would not dissolve in the water and would remain suspended and unavailable for the fiber to access.”

- Liz Spencer

Instructions:

  • Scour fabric: scouring is a hot water wash that removes industrial sizing, dirt, waxes, oils, lanolin (wool), sericin (silk) and pectic substances (plant fibers) from your substrate to be dyed. For plant fibers use 2 tsp synthrapol or detergent (neutral soap) and 8 tsp soda ash (alkaline surfactant) per pound of fiber. Add scouring agents to your very hot water wash in a machine, or to a clean pot of very hot water (above 160 degrees F) and let scour for an hour while stirring. Scouring ensures even take up of the dye. Fabrics sold as “Ready for Dyeing” sometimes do not need to be scoured.

Protein-based fibers, like silk and wool, are usually best scoured by hand using Orvus Paste (1 tsp per 1 lb fiber being dyed) or gentle soap with hot water that doesn’t exceed 160 degrees F so as not to damage or “felt” the fibers.

  • Bring water in a large pot 2/3 full to 120 degrees.
  • While you wait for the water to heat, mix the indigo with enough water to wet it out entirely, getting rid of gritty clumps. An easy way to hydrate the indigo is to add it to water in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and some marbles and shake well for a few minutes.
  • Add this indigo solution to the hot water in the pot, then stir in the calcium hydroxide.
  • Finally, add the fructose and stir well.
  • The vat may take up to 45 minutes to be ready and sometimes takes overnight to reduce.
  • Wearing gloves, submerge your pre-wet materials in the vat carefully and gently rub the material while submerged for a few minutes. Then taking care not to agitate, stir or drip back into the vat, remove the materials.
  • As the materials are being removed, let them drip into a bucket nearby. The indigo rich contents of the bucket can be recycled back into the vat when you recalibrate it for later use.
  • Allow up to half an hour between dips so the fiber can fully oxidize with the material hanging in a shady spot. When you’re happy with the depth of color (remember some of the indigo will rinse off, and that plant fibers such as cotton tend to dry a few shades lighter) rinse in cool water until there is no longer any indigo rinsing off.
  • For the integrity of the fiber add a bit of vinegar to the final rinse/soak to neutralize the alkalinity of the calcium hydroxide (especially for protein-based fibers like wool and silk).

Iron Vat

 

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

An iron vat is the ideal recipe to achieve beautiful saturated blues on cotton, linen, and other plant-based fibers. It is not recommended for protein-based fibers, like wool and silk, as the iron may cause discoloration or brittleness of the fabric.

Once set up, the vat does not require heating and may last for weeks or months when covered, only needing to be replenished occasionally.

To make a vat, you must make a concentrated solution containing dissolved (reduced) indigo and then add it to the large vat container. A 5-gallon bucket works well depending on the size of your project. We offer all necessary ingredients for this vat in our Natural Indigo Iron Vat Kit.

Ingredients: All ingredients are based on using a 5-gallon bucket

  • 50g of Stony Creek Colors Natural Indigo
  • 35g Iron (Ferrous Sulfate)
  • 44g Pickled Lime (Calcium Hydroxide)
  • A 5-gallon tall and narrow bucket with a lid to serve as a vat container
  • A lidded pot or large jar for the stock solution. Tip: It should be about a quarter (25%) the size of your vat. A 2 quarts pot to 1-gallon pot will serve well.

All dyestuff must first be processed to extract the pigment. In beginning any new project, the proper amount of Indigo needs to be calculated. We first determine the total volume, amount of water in gallons, of your vat. The stock solution, indigo, should be a quarter (25%) of the volume of your final vat.

Indigo Stock Solution:

Use 17g to every gallon of Stony Creek Colors Natural Indigo for a very strong vat when dyeing plant-based fibers. For a slower-building vat, use 9g SSC Natural indigo per gallon.

The recipe below uses about 13g natural indigo/gallon.

In 100% active indigo this ranges from 3-6 g/gal equivalent. For example, if you are making a strong 5-gallon vat with 40% High-Purity Natural Indigo, use about 85 grams.

To make a 4-gallon vat from 50g of SCC natural indigo, you will need about 17.5g of active dye. Per 50g natural indigo powder, use 35g Iron and 44g Pickling Lime.

Preparing your Indigo:

  • Dissolve Indigo paste thoroughly in hot water
  • Dissolve Pickling Lime in 0.5 L of warm water
  • Dissolve Iron Sulfate in 0.5 - 1 L of warm water (add more water if necessary)
  • Fill a large container, such as a pot or 2-quart mason jar with a lid with warm water (50C or 120F), leaving room for the above ingredients.
  • Add indigo, then the dissolved iron, then the pickling lime. Stir well before adding the next ingredient.
  • Let it sit with the lid on for 2-3 hours. The stock will change color from blue to brownish-yellow.

Preparing the Vat:

Use a container, preferably plastic, that is as tall and narrow as possible. A good container to use is a 5-gallon bucket with a lid.

  • Fill the vat, leaving enough room for the stock solution, with 90-120 degree F water.

For the 4-gallon vat recipe above, you will need 92g of pickling lime and 30g of iron.

If you are making a larger or smaller vat, use 23g of pickling lime and 7-8g iron per gallon.

  • Paste the lime with water and dissolve the iron in warm tap water, then add the lime followed by the iron to the vat.
  • Stir well, then wait 30 minutes to 1 hour before adding the indigo stock solution. Avoid stirring roughly and pour the stock carefully to minimize the amount of air that is introduced to the vat. The final color of the vat should be brownish-yellow.

Allow the sediment to settle completely before using the vat, and take care to avoid letting the fabric touch the sediment at the bottom of your bucket. We like to put a raised stainless metal grating at the bottom of the vat. If the sediment does discolor the fabric, a good soak in vinegar will sometimes remove the stains.

Dyeing with Indigo:

  • Scour fabric: Scouring is a hot water wash that removes industrial sizing, dirt, waxes, oils, lanolin (wool), sericin (silk), and pectic substances (plant-based fibers) from your fabrics.

For plant-based fibers use 2 tsp synthrapol or pH-neutral detergent and 8 tsp soda ash (alkaline surfactant) per pound of fiber. Add scouring agents to your very hot water wash in a machine, or to a clean pot of very hot water (above 160 degrees F) and let scour for an hour while stirring. Scouring ensures even color. Fabrics sold as “Ready for Dyeing” sometimes do not need to be scoured.

Protein-based fibers, like silk and wool, are usually best scoured by hand using Orvus Paste (1 tsp per 1 lb fiber being dyed) or gentle soap with hot water that doesn’t exceed 160 degrees F, so as not to damage or “felt” the fibers.

You can scour a bunch of materials at once and do not need to dye them all right away. Just make sure they are dry before you store them.

  • Wearing gloves, pre-wet scoured material with water then submerge the materials into the vat carefully.
  • You want to minimize the amount of oxygen you are adding to the vat by adding slowly and not lifting up and down a lot.

Tip: To get your materials more evenly dyed, we suggest gently rub the material with your hands staying submerged below the surface for a few minutes. If you are dyeing shibori or tied garments and not worried about even tones throughout, you can place them in there and fish them out when ready.

  • For all indigo dyeing, regardless of vat type, you want to build up color through successive dips. Start with longer dips (5-10 minutes) and then follow up with shorter dips (30 seconds - 1 minute) to deepen the shade.
  • Taking care not to agitate, stir or drip back into the vat, then remove the materials.
  • As the materials are being removed, let them drip into a nearby bucket. The indigo rich contents of the bucket can be recycled back into the vat when you recalibrate it for later use.
  • Allow a minimum of 10 minutes and a max of 30 minutes between dips so the fiber can fully oxidize with the material hanging in a shady spot. When you’re happy with the depth of color, rinse it off and let it dry.

Remember some of the indigo will run off, and plant-based fibers tend to dry a few shades lighter than their color when wet. So, if you love a color you have reached in the vat, at least dip it one more time!

Tip: If you want a very light color for your final garment, make the vat less strong by adding less indigo stock, and do shorter dips. You want at least three dips even if they are short. Rinse in cool water until most of the unfixed indigo is rinsed out.

  • For the integrity of the fiber, add a bit of vinegar or citric acid to the final soak (especially for protein-based fibers like wool and silk). Then rinse again! Indigo may still rub off so we would suggest being careful with your first few times wearing the garment (DON'T sit on any white couches!).

Maintaining Your Vat:

To keep the vat working as long as possible, stir it thoroughly once per day.

If the vat turns greenish, add a maximum of 15g/gal iron sulfate, stir thoroughly, and allow to settle before checking the color again.

If the vat turns blueish, add a small amount of lime (1-2g/gallon). Again, stir thoroughly and allow to resettle before checking the color.

 

Hydro Vat

 

Download a printable pdf version of this recipe.

This is the fastest vat and works well for all types of fabrics. We are using Rit Color Remover as the chemical reducing agent because it is widely available for a gallon vat. You can use hydro or thiourea dioxide if those are more accessible to you. We offer Natural Indigo Hydro Vat Kits with all necessary ingredients included.

Ingredients: This recipe is for a 2-gallon vat

  • 15g of Stony Creek Colors Natural Indigo (25%) or 10g of Stony Creek Colors High Purity Indigo (40%)
  • 15g of Rit Color Remover (contains sodium dithionite also known as hydrosulfite)
  • 4 g of Sodium carbonate for protein-based fibers (wool or silk) or 10 g for plant-based fibers (cotton or linen)
  • 2 gallons of water
  • A stock pot (minimum of 2.5 gallons)

Preparing the Dye Vat:

  • Pre-wet the indigo in the quart jar.
  • Mix the indigo with enough water to wet it out entirely, getting rid of gritty clumps. Tip: An easy way to hydrate the indigo is to add it to water in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and some marbles; shake well for a few minutes. If you do this, we suggest you remove marbles before dyeing.
  • First, you will need to make a “stock solution”. Add the pasted indigo and half of the sodium carbonate to a quart jar and fill about a third of the way with 140 F water. Make sure both powders are thoroughly mixed and then fill the jar nearly full with more hot water.
  • Sprinkle in ¾ of the Rit Color Remover, stir gently, and screw the cap onto the jar.
  • Let the stock solution sit to reduce for at least 15 minutes. You should see the color go to green or yellow.

Tip: It is a good idea to place this mason jar upright and sealed into a larger container in case it leaks. Placing it in warm water will help speed up the reaction. If after 15 minutes you slowly turn and rotate the jar and see a lot of settled indigo or while at the bottom, gently rotate to try to get that indigo into suspension.

  • Meanwhile, fill your pot with just under 2 gallons of water at about 120F-140F (remember you still need to add your 1-quart stock solution to this pot). Room temp water is fine but may take slightly longer to reduce.
  • Add remaining Rit Color Remover and sodium carbonate. Tip: The target pH of your vat should be around 10 after the stock is added. If you aren’t getting close to that add more sodium carbonate. Prepare the vat by adding the remaining Rit Color Remover to the vat vessel with 120-140 F water.
  • Add the stock solution to the vat vessel (2.5-gallon pot). Stir gently without splashing and wait 10-15 minutes for it to go fully into reduction.

Dyeing with Indigo:

  • Scour fabric: Scouring is a hot water wash that removes industrial sizing, dirt, waxes, oils, lanolin (wool), sericin (silk) and pectic substances (plant-based fibers) from your fabric.

For plant-based fibers use 2 tsp synthrapol or detergent (neutral soap) and 8 tsp soda ash (alkaline surfactant) per pound of fabric. Add scouring agents to your very hot water wash in a machine, or to a clean pot of very hot water (above 160 degrees F) and let scour for an hour while stirring. Scouring ensures even take up of the dye. Fabrics sold as “Ready for Dyeing” sometimes do not need to be scoured.

Protein-based fibers, like silk and wool, are usually best scoured by hand using Orvus Paste (1 tsp per 1 lb fiber being dyed) or gentle soap with hot water that doesn’t exceed 160 degrees F, so as not to damage or “felt” the fibers.

You can scour a bunch of materials at once and do not need to dye them all right away. Just make sure they are dry before you store them.

  • Wearing gloves, pre-wet scoured material with water then submerge the materials into the vat carefully. You want to minimize the amount of oxygen you are adding to the vat by adding slowly and not lifting up and down a lot.

Tip: To get your materials more evenly dyed, we suggest gently rub the material with your hands staying submerged below the surface for a few minutes. If you are dyeing shibori or tied garments and not worried about even tones throughout, you can place them in there and fish them out when ready.  

  • For all indigo dyeing, regardless of vat type, you want to build up color through successive dips. Start with longer dips (5-10 minutes) and then follow up with shorter dips (30 seconds - 1 minute) to deepen the shade.
  • Then, taking care not to agitate, stir or drip back into the vat, remove the materials.
  • As the materials are being removed, let them drip into a nearby bucket. The indigo rich contents of the bucket can be recycled back into the vat when you recalibrate it for later use.
  • Allow a minimum of 10 minutes and a max of 30 minutes between dips so the fiber can fully oxidize with the material hanging in a shady spot. When you’re happy with the depth of color. Remember some of the indigo will rinse off, and that plant-based fibers tend to dry a few shades lighter than their color when wet. So, if you love a color you have reached in the vat, at least dip it one more time!

Tip: If you want a very light color for your final garment, make the vat less strong by adding less indigo stock, and do shorter dips. You want at least three dips even if they are short. Rinse in cool water until a lot of the unfixed indigo is rinsed off.

  • For the integrity of the fiber, add a bit of vinegar or citric acid to the final soak (especially for protein-based fibers like wool and silk). Then rinse again! Indigo may still rub off so we would suggest being careful with your first few times wearing the garment (DON’T sit on any white couches!).

Want to dye something bigger? For A 10 Gallon Vat You Will Need:

    • 70g 25% SCC indigo
    • 70g Rit Color Remover
    • 18g sodium carbonate for wool or silk and 26g for cotton
    • 1-quart jar for stock solution
    • Use a 10 gallon (40 quarts) stainless steel pot and use 9 gallons of water for your vat which can be found online or in most big box stores

 

Mordant Recipes

Dye assists are various chemical and natural compounds used to scour or mordant fibers, or modify colors.

Explore all our dye assists we offer and follow along to our recipes to learn how to improve the life of your color.

Mordanting with Myrobalan 

 

Myrobalan is used as both a dye or a mordant for plant-based fibers, like cotton and linen.

Mordanting with myrobalan will create a yellowish undertone to your textile. 

In beginning any new project, the proper amount of Myrobalan Powder needs to be calculated.  

1. First we need to measure the weight of fabric, WOF. We recommend using 15-20% WOF for all plant-based fibers. For example, if you are dying 500 grams (1 pound) worth of fiber, you would need 75-100 grams of powder.

If we are calculating 20% of myrobalan powder this would be our formula:

Weight of Fiber x 0.2 = Amount of Myrobalan powder needed (by weight)

2. To prepare your mordant bath, fill a pot with warm water, enough to allow your fiber to float freely.

3. Add the pre-measured powder and stir well until it's completely liquid.

4. Once the fabric is in, slowly begin heating your water to about 180 degrees F, above a simmer but below a boil with slight steam, for about an hour.

5. Follow this with a second bath of 8-10% WOF with alum. This second bath is essential in ensuring the dye will adhere to the fabric and achieve brighter, more even colors.